Monsoon season is well and truly here. For many, it’s a time to get the hell out of Myanmar, to find a sunnier, less sodden getaway. It’s also a time when much of the country floods. Every year this causes some level of chaos (not to mention tragedy), but the deluge has its advantages as well.
Waterfalls around the country cascade into life, lakes and dams rise, their waters turning deeper, darker shades of green and blue. Huge sunken plains become submerged, creating seasonal lakes or “inns.” So, if, like me, you’re a lover of all things H2O, rainy season represents the best time to get outside and explore.
Which brings us to Sakyin. If there were awards going for the country’s strangest towns this mining community in central Myanmar would be a strong contender to take first prize. Sandwiched between two enormous white alabaster mountains, the entire town is given over to the mining of alabaster and to the construction of Buddhist statues.
At every turn villagers can be seen caked in white dust, power tools in one hand, half-smoked cheroots in the other, chiselling, drilling, sanding painting… it’s as fascinating as it is surreal.
But there’s another reason to visit Sakyin. During monsoon, the plains bordering the town completely flood, a direct result of the Irrawaddy river bursting its banks. From the pagoda at the top of the hill (Google maps: 22.286181, 96.070338), it looks just like a gigantic lake, but, in reality, what you’re looking at is a seasonal tributary of the Irrawaddy. Sure enough, as you head further into the waters, a current starts to pull.
Whatever you want to call them, the waters around Sakyin provide one of the most life-affirming and visceral experiences in Myanmar. You may need to ask around a bit, but if you head to the base of the pagoda here (22.288621, 96.070898), you should be able to hire a boat to take you out on the waters.
The scenery is non-stop stunning, as you wind your way through trees and foliage poking out of the waters, past pagodas and monasteries, the miners hard at work on the river banks blasting down huge blocks of alabaster.
If you head out another mile or so, you’re treated to incredible views of the mountains and if you ask nicely your boatman can take you to a submerged bridge, islanded villages, and even out on to the mighty Irrawaddy itself. It’s a genuine adventure.
Sakyin is a perfect example of how the rains can throw open the floodgates of travel in Myanmar. The town is worth a visit in or outside of monsoon season, but the appeal of Sakyin rises in tandem with its waters and if you’re looking for something different to do with the damp days ahead, this town should definitely be on your radar. Don’t shelter from the downpour this year—embrace it.
Nearest City: Mandalay
How to get there: Sakyin is about 90 minutes from Mandalay by taxi and roughly two hours by motorbike. Expect to pay around 40-50,000 kyats for a cab and between 8-15,000 kyats for a bike.
Where to stay: There are no hotels in Sakyin. You’ll have to return to Mandalay for accommodation.
When to visit: The town is open for business year-round (alabaster never sleeps!) but the boat trip is only available during monsoon season. Sometimes the plains flood as early as June but to avoid disappointment aim for mid-July to mid-October (at the very latest).
