Two years ago, a local authority in the Ayeyarwady delta closed a popular river beach because, as the area’s parliamentary representative said, “there was a high risk of death from drowning” in the deep water drop off.
Not something you want on your day out. Fortunately the new Nyaung Chaung Tha, a football field-sized sandy bank at the lazy confluence of the Ayeyarwady and Pun Hlaing rivers, is not so dangerous and makes a memorable day trip from Yangon.
Looking out across the water at sunset paints a tranquil picture of archetypical Myanmar countryside; soft light gently gilds a swollen river as it laps against a verdant shore capped with a shining pagoda.
Behind is the kind of bedlam usually reserved for a Spanish resort. Clusters of sun canopies cast shade on the joyous patrons and their plastic chairs, which sink further into the sand as the day wears on.
Every day is like this, a young vendor told Myanmar Mix on a recent visit. Folks gulping Myanmar Beer and devouring little sun-dried and fried fish by the fistful, the odd drunk venturing to the two slides in the shallows.
For variation, families also climb into canoes that are dragged around in knee-high water or buy ice cream from a mobile DJ stand that takes pit stops near the 60-odd stalls by the car park.
They sell prawn fritters and other snacks along with t-shirts, shorts, hats, and a range of vegetables including massive gourds, alluding to the surprising possibility that some people come here for their weekly shop.
For those coming to swim, there are better places. Polystyrene bowls, bottles, beer cans and plastic wrapping find their way into the water, and fish nip people who stay in the same spot for too long. There are showers and toilets next to the stalls, but the convenience of practically sitting in a river will be too much for most people to bother making the trip.
Perhaps it’s best enjoyed on one of the inflatable tyres available for rent. Just before dusk everybody leaves, as overnight stays are banned, and the carefree atmosphere ignites again the next day from 6am.
Need to know
Where: Nyaungdon town, Ayeyarwady region, about two hours from Yangon on the Yangon-Pathein highway.
How to get there: A return taxi trip costs around 50,000 kyats.
Other costs: 200 kyats per person and 1,500 kyats per vehicle to enter the inland beach area. And a few thousand kyats each for beer and snacks which are brought to you by vendors.
When to visit: Nyaung Chaung Tha opens 6am-6pm daily from late February to the start of monsoon season around June.
