Myanmar really is a biker’s paradise. The diversity of the landscape coupled with the country’s innate and intoxicating other-world appeal ensures that wherever you are in Myanmar, you’re never more than 10,000 kyats and a scroll on Google Maps away from a shot of pure freedom. Here are five road trips to fuel the engines of your imagination.
Ngwe Saung to Chaung Thar, and beyond…
First up, an undisputed classic: Ngwe Saung to Chaung Thar. True, you spend nearly half the trip being ferried between estuaries on raft-like water taxis but that’s half the fun. You can do this as either a day-return trip—living it up large with the locals at Chaung Thar before heading back to Ngwe Saung—or, push on further and stay overnight at one of the many guesthouses that line the coast all the way to Shwethaungyan. Speaking of which: go to Shwethaungyan. Shwethaungyan hotel is fantastic, there are countless islands and beaches to be explored to the north (organise a boat here: Google Maps 17.151706, 94.504760), and from the hotel it’s possible to arrange a mangrove tour that includes planting your own tree: sold!
Trip length: one-day minimum, but you can extend for as long as you want.
Beaches galore: from Ye to Ma Gyi
In my opinion Ye is perhaps the most overlooked destination in Myanmar. Mountains, waterfalls and river cruises abound here, but it’s the deserted beaches and islands you can soak in if you follow this simple route.
Try to get on the road no later than 8am. Cross the bridge and take the left turning here (15.206437, 97.879726). Follow the road south, breaking for lunch at Kabyar Wa Resort, and, if time’s on your side, cough up the 30,000 kyats for a speed boat to gorgeous Kyun Gyi island. Get back on the main road (which is in remarkably good nick given how remote it is), and head to Ta Yoke Htak beach (15.016632, 97.781810). A mile and a half of unalloyed sandy bliss, shipwreck included. Further south still, you’ll find Kawsar Chaung Wa (14.989427, 97.800164), an absolute mind-bender of white sand and swirling estuary dunes—check out the stranded pagoda (14.995822, 97.797174). Last, but by no means least, grab your camera and a celebratory beer for sunset at Ma Gyi beach (14.951574, 97.806654).
Trust me, you won’t forget this one in a hurry.
Trip length: One day. At the time of research there were no foreigner friendly hotels in Kabyar Wa. A shame, as this would work better as a two-day trip. Maybe pack a tent and camp out on one of the beaches.
The hills of Shan state: Mandalay, Pyin Oo Lwin and Kyaukme
We’re getting into full-blown motorbike-vacation territory here, a classic loop through the hills and coffee plantations of Shan state. On day one, head out of Mandalay and wind your way up through the hills and dappled sunlit lanes towards Pyin Oo Lwin. Personally, I think Pyin Oo Lwin is up there with the very best of Myanmar, so you might consider taking a couple of days off to visit some waterfalls or take in the flowers and exotic birds of the Kandawgyi National Gardens.
The next leg of your journey is an epic ride into the mountains towards Mogok, where the stunning scenery just, does, not, let up. When we did this trip in 2015 it wasn’t possible to stay in Mogok without a licenced guide. If its status remains the same, that leaves you with two sleeping options once you reach the border check (22.825859, 96.558661). One, pack a tent and find a bit of land to set up on. Wild camping in Myanmar is technically illegal but this far out in the sticks you should get away with it. Two, find a friendly local and/or monastery who will put you up for the night.
Do try to get some rest though, because the next day will be hardcore. The road down to Kyaukme doesn’t mess about; all rocky dirt road for many, many miles. Never in my life have I been so tempted to kiss the ground when we finally touched down on that sweet concrete road leading into Kyaukme.
Again, you might want to chill in Kyaukme for a day or two to recharge your batteries, which will be just a couple of digits away from absolute zero at this stage.
That just leaves the final part your journey—the return to Mandalay. We did it all in one insanely action-packed day through the driving rain but there’s nothing to stop you breaking it up again for some more waterfull hunting in Pyin Oo Lwin.
Trip length: four days (without tourist stops).
Explore Hpa-An
With its spectacular karst mountains and luminous green jungles surrounding you at every turn, Hpa-An is arguably the best place in Myanmar to just rent a bike and see what happens. You will feel good to be alive, I guarantee it. If you want a bit of attraction-centred guidance, try this two-day itinerary: on the first day, head to Kyaut Ka Latt water pagoda, then, double back over the bridge to check out Yathe Pyan and Kaw Gon cave (watch out for those monkeys), before taking in the sunset to the accompaniment of hundreds of thousands of bats at Linno Gu mountain.
Day two is where biking in Hpa-An really comes into its own. From the city centre, head to the base of Mount Zwegabin and the endless rows of Buddha statues at the Lumbine Gardens. Afterwards, head over to Sadan for cave exploration and a wicked little boat ride. By now you’re probably overheating, so get yourself over to Loon Nya lake (actually a mountain spring), for a refreshing dunk in its florescent blue waters. Finally, as the sun starts to set, cruise back into Hpa-An from the opposite side of the mountains (the eastern side), and let the raw beauty of the region wash over you.
Trip length: two days.
The Naypyidaw/Sittang river loop
Finding someone who’ll lend you a bike in Naypyidaw can be tricky, but, if you can, this one-day circuit around the Sittang river is an unofficial highlight of Myanmar’s dystopian capital. First off, drive through Pyinmana via lovely leafy-green country roads. Then, cross over the southern bridge of Paung Laung Dam (19.679195, 96.289625) and head to the northern crossing here (19.776791, 96.328652).
The countryside on this leg of the journey is very pretty, especially after the rains when the surrounding farmland is in full bloom. To cap it off, go for a refreshing river swim at Hlay Khun Taung Resort before heading back to Naypyidaw. It’s only one day but you get a little bit of everything: gorgeous scenery, wild swimming, and, perhaps best of all, a chance to go full-on Hell’s Angel and gun it down the empty eight-lane Naypyidaw highways.
Trip length: one day.
